How much food should a dog eat per day?

How many scoops go in the bowl depends on your dog's weight, age, breed and how much they move during the day. The table on the bag is a decent starting point, but it is not the right answer for every dog.

Why is there no single number for everyone?

A dog's daily energy requirement does not rise in a straight line with body weight. A 5 kg dog does not use half the energy of a 10 kg dog — proportionally it uses more. That is why nutrition calculations use body weight raised to a power rather than the weight itself.

The second factor is activity. A dog that goes out twice a day for a short toilet walk cannot eat the same amount as one that runs with its owner. Neutering also lowers the requirement, because it slows the metabolism.

The logic of the calculation

Veterinary nutrition uses two concepts:

• Resting energy requirement (RER): the energy a dog spends simply staying alive, doing nothing.
• Maintenance energy requirement (MER): RER multiplied by a factor that reflects the dog's situation.

RER is found by raising body weight to the power of 0.75 and multiplying by 70. That value is then multiplied by a factor such as:

The result is in calories. To convert it into grams you need the kcal/kg or kcal/100 g figure on the bag — and that varies considerably between brands. The same 200 grams can be 700 calories in one food and well over 800 in another.

How many meals a day?

• 2–4 months: 3–4 meals a day
• 4–12 months: 3 meals a day
• Adult: 2 meals a day

Feeding an adult dog a single daily meal is a common habit but not the preferred one; splitting the meal in two is safer, especially in deep-chested breeds. Fixing meals to set times helps digestion and makes toilet habits predictable.

Am I feeding the right amount?

The most reliable indicator is not a table — it is the dog. Two simple checks:

1. Rib check: running your hand along the side without pressing, you should feel the ribs but not see them.
2. View from above: looking down, there should be a slight inward tuck at the waist (an hourglass shape).

If you cannot feel the ribs without pressing, there is excess weight; if they are clearly visible, the dog is underweight.

When changing food

Switching food overnight can cause diarrhoea and vomiting. Spread the transition over 7 days:

• Days 1–2: 75% old, 25% new
• Days 3–4: 50% old, 50% new
• Days 5–6: 25% old, 75% new
• Day 7: 100% new

Watch stool consistency during the transition. If it softens, go back to the previous ratio and stay there for a few more days.

Common mistakes

• Not counting treats: treats given through the day should not exceed 10% of daily calories. If training is intensive, subtract the equivalent from the meal.
• Feeding without measuring: an "eyeballed" bowl creates a serious weight difference within weeks. A kitchen scale is the most accurate tool.
• Forgetting water: water intake is critical, particularly for dogs on dry food. Refresh the bowl every day.
• Adding human food: onion, garlic, grapes, raisins, chocolate, anything containing xylitol, and avocado are toxic to dogs.

When to see a vet

Talk to your veterinarian before changing the diet if you notice:

• Unexplained weight loss or gain
• Loss of appetite lasting more than two days
• Recurring diarrhoea, vomiting or excessive gas
• A chronic condition (kidney, liver, pancreas, diabetes)