Ticks and fleas are not merely a nuisance; the diseases they carry can cause serious illness. The good news is that both are largely preventable.
When are they active?
Ticks are most active in mild weather, typically spring and autumn, though in regions with mild winters they can be found all year. Fleas breed year-round at indoor temperatures — which is why limiting protection to the summer months is a common mistake.
Tick risk is highest in long grass, scrub, woodland edges and the corners of parks.
Why this is not just about itching
- Ticks can transmit blood-parasite and bacterial diseases such as babesiosis, ehrlichiosis and Lyme disease. Some progress quickly and are life-threatening.
- Fleas in heavy infestations can cause anaemia, especially in young animals, carry tapeworm, and trigger severe skin inflammation in animals allergic to flea saliva.
Important: Some external parasite products made for dogs (especially those containing permethrin) are lethally toxic to cats. Never share a product between species; always read the label.
How to plan protection
Preventive products come as spot-on drops, tablets, collars and sprays. The right choice depends on species, weight, age, lifestyle and whether there are other animals in the home — so the product should be chosen with your vet.
Three rules help in planning:
- Continuity: apply the next dose before the current one wears off. A gap resets the protection.
- Dose by weight: as a puppy grows the weight band changes; staying on the old dose weakens protection.
- Every animal in the home: treating only one is not enough — fleas simply come back via the other.
If there are fleas, the home needs treating too
Most of the flea life cycle happens not on the animal but inside the house: eggs and larvae sit in carpets, rugs, bedding and between furniture. Treating the animal alone usually does not end the problem.
- Wash bedding and textiles at high temperature
- Vacuum carpets and furniture regularly, focusing on corners; dispose of the bag immediately
- Ask your vet whether an environmental treatment is needed
- Continue treatment for several weeks — new fleas can emerge until the cycle is broken
What to do when a tick has attached
The correct response is calm and mechanical:
- Use fine-tipped tweezers or a tick removal tool.
- Grip the tick as close to the skin as possible, by its mouthparts — not by the body.
- Pull straight and slowly, without twisting or turning.
- Clean the area with antiseptic and wash your hands.
- Note the date and watch for lethargy, loss of appetite, fever and darkening urine over the next 2–3 weeks.
Never do this: pouring alcohol, cologne, nail polish or petroleum jelly on the tick, or burning it. These methods stress the tick, making it empty its contents into the animal's bloodstream and increasing the risk of disease transmission.
If the mouthparts stay in the skin, or the area becomes red and swollen, see your vet.
Make checking a habit
After walking in grassland, run your hands through your pet's coat. The places ticks attach most often:
- Inside and behind the ears
- Neck and under the collar
- Armpits and groin
- Between the toes
- Around the eyes and the corners of the mouth
A tick found early carries far less risk, because the attachment time is shorter.
When to see a vet
- Lethargy, fever or loss of appetite after a tick is removed
- Darkening of the urine
- Pale gums in a heavy flea infestation (a sign of anaemia)
- Itching, redness and hair loss that will not settle
🐾 Track it with PATI: You do not have to keep the schedule, measurements and reminders in this article by hand — the PATI app keeps your pet's records and tells you when it is time. Download on the App Store →
⚠️ Please note: This article is for general information and does not replace a veterinary examination. For dosage, product and treatment decisions specific to your pet, consult your veterinarian.